Via Biasin to Sass Maor


A wonderful route, the exposure and the excellent rock make this an extraordinary climb, despite a short section on the 8th pitch, . This high-level classic route with numerous repetitions was first opened by Manolo. The start is as for the Via Solleder. Take the “Diagonale” for about 100 m then branch off to the left.


The normal route is easy to find as it is well traced and signed with red markers. From the top, head East and abseil down a step (1 long and 2 short 27m pitches).  You will reach a large slanting terrace which you will traverse down and around the North face above the col with Cima Madonna. With other two short abseil pitches or a long one you will reach the col. Go down the left-hand gully (South) until you get to a rock wedged in the gully. Go under it, you will quickly find yourself at the junction with the Pissotti gully. Take the well-marked route to the right and go down to the last rock face which you will abseil down (with a short pitch). From there it’s just a few minutes from the Hut. Descent – 1,30 hours.

Duration: time required for the entire route – 3,30 hours.


 Download the PDF description of the route