Messner route to Cima della Madonna


A very impressive and satisfying climb on a slab in a superb dolomitic scenery. The route is around 30-40m to the right of “Caza Beatriz” (3) and starts from a good stance at the base of a well-structured wall, then follows the right-hand edge of a curved crack. Excellent threads. The trickiest sections are the on the 4th and 5th pitches where you have to be careful with the moves in some complicated pitches. The aim for the clean corner on the fifth pitch is on the right-hand edge of the wall, and ends on the last shoulder of Spigolo del Velo after a 30m diagonal to the right, a pitch away from the crest. Follow the footpath “Ferrata del Velo” (739) which lead to the Velo Hut, branch it off where it crosses the low rocks of the Spigolo del Velo; then go up again for around 120 m, until you reach a comfortable terrace on the arête. Leave the arête and continue along the base of the wall until you are 40m before a gap between the large wing on the left and the wall on the right. Here is the start, not to be confused with the start of “Caza Beatriz” (3) which is just before the entrance to the gap and has a thick rope loop in the first bolt.


From the peak, head East, first on the almost level crest then following a well signed route on the steps a few metres below the rim of the South flank until you get to a crack; a grade IV pitch takes you round to the North face where you will find the first anchor ring. Three 25 m abseils and a short scramble or two 50 m abseils will take you close to the Col at the top of the SSE-facing gully. At the junction go down to the right as far as the last rock face (anchor ring) which drops down to the scree slope, 15 minutes far from the refuge. Alternatively, abseil down “Caza Beatriz” with a 55 m rope.