Via Longo – De Bertolis

Climb description

Amazing ascent, an experience worth repeating also because of the easy approach. Some belay stances reinforcements and the replacement of some precarious protections would make this route a great classic and an alternative to the Spigolo del Velo, which is often very crowded. The start is about half way round the wide intermediate ledge of belay stance no. 3 of the “Velo”. The first section is clearly marked by several bolts which can be easily seen from the ledge. Thereafter, just follow the topo.


From the peak, head toward East, first on the almost level crest then follow a well-marked route on the steps a few metres below the rim of the South flank until you get to a crack; a grade IV pitch takes you round to the North face where you’ll find the first anchor ring. Three 25 m abseils and a short scramble or two 50 m abseils will take you close to the Col at the top of the SSE-facing gully. At a junction go down to the right as far as the last rock face (anchor ring) which drops down to the scree slope, from here it’s 15 minutes to the hut.


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