Via Supermatita


Superb route, the very first to cover the entire length of the vast eastern wall of Sass Moar. This great Dolomites routes, is a climb of over 1200m with an overall Alpine grade of ED+. The route is challenging, with only 7 bolts in place, and has some very demanding sections on very crumbly rock. The start is 70 metres to the right of the first cables on the “Sentiero del Cacciatore”, on the vertical section of the black roof left of the wide overhanging arch which cuts diagonally across the vast grey slab. Next, head for the right-hand edges of the two overhanging arches of the “Quarti di luna” around 380m from the base, then the intersection with “Diagonale Solleder” 50m before its end at the base of the right-hand crack on the pillar called Castello di Onix. The upper part of the route begins here: follow the crack on the pillar until it disappears into a yellow rock (V-). Continue straight up for 45m, then move left towards an arête under a big black overhang. Behind the arête, angle left on precarious rock until you get to a niche with an excellent thread at the start of the crux. To the right of the arête take the overhanging crack on unpleasant rock to a comfortable ledge. Come out of the crack on the right, still on very crumbly rock, and into a niche then continue up a corner crack to a grey ledge; you are now out of the most difficult sections.


The normal route is easy to find as it is well signed and indicated with red markers. Once at the top, head East and abseil down a step (1 long and 2 short 27m pitches). This will lead you to a large slanting terrace to follow down around the North face above the col with Cima Madonna. Other two short abseil pitches or a long one will get you to the col. Go down the left-hand gully (south) until you get to a rock wedged in the gully. Go under it and you will quickly find yourself at the junction with the Pissotti gully. Take the clear route to the right and go down to the last rock face, that you will need to abseil down (with a short pitch). From there, the Hut is just a few minutes far. Descent – 1,30 hours.

Duration: Total time required 3,30 hours.

 Download the PDF with the description of the route