Spigolo del Velo

Description of the Ascent

The excellent solid rock with good holds make this a highly enjoyable route, one of the most popular in the Alps. A brilliant achievement of the famous Gunther Langes, who during the aftermath of World War II notched up an extraordinary collection of outstanding routes, which have become great classics of the Dolomites. Since then, the Spigolo del Velo has seen more than 5500 repetitions, including solo and winter ascents, ascents by women, record ascents and descents, which confirm the great interest in this dolomitic route, the mainstay of the Velo della Madonna Hut.

From the Hut, follow the footpath for the “Ferrata del Velo” (739) until it crosses the low rocks of the Spigolo del Velo, then go up again for around 120 m until up to a comfortable terrace on the arête which marks the start of the route; this is a medium difficulty section. The first three pitches take you round the first pillar to reach the bottom of a difficult chimney on a good rock. The next two pitches (V) lead from the chimney to the indentation. Here the grey, compact and elegant arête rises up: from here, continue to the top.


From the peak, heading East, first on the almost level crest then on a simple path on steps a few metres below the rim of the southern flank until you get to a crack. A grade IV pitch takes you round to the North face where you will find the first anchor ring. Three 25 m abseils and a short scramble or two 50 m abseils will take you to the Col at the top of the SSE-facing gully. At a cross-road go down to the right as far as the last rock face (anchor ring), which drops down to the scree slope, 15 minutes far from the Hut.

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